Arundell Arms

After a hard day's hunting, shooting or fishing (the inn has 20 miles of fly-fishing rights on the Tamar), the Arundell Arms will welcome you with open arms and the comfy, classically chintzy embrace of squashy sofas, antiques and log fires. It's an elegant and sophisticated place, where you don't need to turn up in a waxed Barbour jacket and Hunter wellies to feel welcome. In the stylishly decorated restaurant, as you'd hope, there's game in season and fish from the river, while well-chosen local suppliers feature prominently on a menu that champions fabulous West Country produce. The cooking takes an unmistakably modern line that might see braised pork cheeks paired with spinach, apple and vanilla purée, smoked bacon, and cider sauce as a starter, with perhaps a ragoût of John Dory and monkfish with lentils, Pernod, leeks and pea shoots to follow. Desserts could run to blood orange parfait with coffee ice cream and marinated oranges.