The Arundell Arms is very much a hunting, shooting and fishing venue, with 20 miles of fly-fishing rights on the Tamar, but its appeal extends far beyond the green welly brigade. It's an elegant and sophisticated place, with comfortable soft furnishings, antiques and log fires, with a chandelier in the stylishly decorated restaurant. Local suppliers are the backbone of the kitchen's output, from Cornish crab salad, with herb vinaigrette, rocket and roast tomatoes, to a trio of lamb (roast rump, braised shoulder and pan-fried kidney). Dishes are well considered, from a simple and effective starter of pan-fried Falmouth Bay scallops with crisp Parma ham, cauliflower purée and a buttery sauce, to a main course of flavoursome and tender fillet of Aylesbury duck with rhubarb compôte and white wine gravy. Good canapés get the palate in gear, and puddings might include a trio of apple desserts: crumble, pannacotta and sorbet.