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The Glasshouse

14 Station Parade, KEW, TW9 3PZ

3 rosettes

This perennially popular neighbourhood restaurant's name comes from the floor-to-ceiling plate glass windows that stand out in the village-like parade of shops near Kew Gardens tube station, and make for a luminous, unbuttoned and slickly neutral contemporary setting. With Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts-Martin (the team behind the equally in-vogue Chez Bruce in Wandsworth and La Trompette in Chiswick) at the helm, you can rest assured that this place is all about seasonally driven modern European cooking that hits the high notes without seeming to try too hard, built upon the solid foundations of classical French cuisine bourgeoise (rather than the posturing of the haute variety). A rich, simple and sumptuous opening dish of rabbit lasagne is layered with green spinach pasta, spiked with fresh tarragon and given extra depth by the addition of parmesan velouté and pickled mushrooms, or there might be a warm salad of smoked eel with salt-baked beetroot, apple and salsify and a beignet of cod. It takes formidable technical skills to make these ideas seem effortless, and main course brings a similarly accomplished layering of flavours and textures in a dish of sea-fresh Cornish cod, supported by poached prawns, parsley gnocchi, charred fennel and a deeply flavoured lobster bisque. Meatier ideas could see breast and stuffed leg of guinea-fowl accompanied by potato gratin into which curry-leaves have been inveigled, the Indian note accentuated with black lentil sauce and coriander pesto. At dessert stage, a pannacotta-like baked white chocolate custard with crunchy honeycomb, damson syrup and gin sauce shows a firm grasp of how flavours work together, or pastry skills might come into play for painstakingly constructed apple tarte fine with ginger ice-cream and caramel sauce. Conscientious and clued-up staff are the icing on the cake, and there's a serious wine list to support the kitchen's efforts.

Further information

Tel: 020 8940 6777
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Dates closed: Xmas, New Year
Sunday lunch available.

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern International
Chef: Berwyn Davies
Number of seats: 60
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 14
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

2 Course lunch from: £23.50
3 Course lunch from: £27.50
2 Course dinner from: £37.50
3 Course dinner from: £42.50
Sunday lunch: £22.50-£32.50
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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Just outside Kew Gardens underground station
Nearest station: Kew Garden

Local information for TW9 3PZ

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