Hotel du Vin & Bistro Henley-on-Thames

Trading up from grain to grape, the former Brakspear's brewery joined the HdV brand with the trademark chic contemporary bistro makeover. The glorious Georgian red-brick buildings encircling the brewery yard were converted with the chain's customary Gallic-inspired sensitivity and style; a central cluster of black leather banquettes is surrounded by copies of famous paintings on buttery-hued, panelled walls, and plenty of wine-related thingamajigs in the expansive Parisian-style bistro. In line with HdV house style, the kitchen sources 'homegrown and local' produce to construct menus with a contemporary European focus. Evergreen classics - French onion soup, say, or chicken liver and foie gras parfait with smoked apple chutney, are a good way to start, ahead of mains such as roast breast and confit leg of Wallingford pheasant with pommes boulangère, or salt cod with chorizo and white bean stew.