Station Road, HENLEY-ON-THAMES, RG9 1AZ
The boathouse name, in a town famous for its regatta, gives a good indication of the fabulous setting mere feet from the Thames: think decked terrace out front and floor-to-ceiling glass windows to display the watery vista. There's real pedigree aboard here, for chef Shaun Dickens has worked at the likes of Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons, Thomas Keller's Per Se in New York and L'Ortolan near Reading. His light, modern, highly detailed and precise cooking shows panache and passion, with interesting textures, colours and flavours and beguiling presentation. Start, perhaps, with the delicious spot-on flavours of chicken, walnut, chicory, pickled onion, and then maybe move on to a perfectly cooked cod with braised chard, orange and a red wine reduction. A great way to end the meal is with a financier with green apple sorbet, sage and a chamomile infusion. Other desserts like 'Orange' (with tagette, chocolate streusel and star anise) keep the bar high. The dining room suits the food; light and contemporary, with unclothed tables, cream leather chairs and splashes of colour from abstract artworks. Service led by wife Gemma is cheerily friendly, knowledgeable and professional, while a bar at the rear adds further kudos to a class act.
Tel: 01491 577937
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Mon-Tue
Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Shaun Dickens
Vegetarian meals available.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £20.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.