The Bluebell

The timbered front of this Tudor coaching inn speaks of its venerability, and although the interiors have been freshened up, the design job hasn't overwhelmed the intrinsic character of the place. The original beams and fireplaces, and the flagstone floor, are all present and correct, the waft of Michael Bublé on the sound system more a matter of taste. The cooking works within the grain of modern British thinking, bringing some very polished classical technique to the broadly-based repertoire. Dishes are cleverly thought out, so that even the relatively familiar can come as a revelation. A slab of duck and green peppercorn terrine offers the contrasts of rich meat, sweet cabbage and sharp peppercorns, offset by the juice of a poached pear accompaniment, the whole supported by a gently warming honey and mustard dressing. Fish is accurately timed and seasoned, as in the fillet of cod that comes with a razor sharp caper butter sauce. Two servings of local lamb with sweet-and-sour peppers in olive and rosemary jus is the kind of meat dish to expect. At dessert, the Valrhona chocolate brownie with salt caramel, candied pecans and banana ice cream is a surefire bet.