Beams, open fires, stone walls and boarded floors are what you would expect of a 500-year-old coaching inn at the heart of the Peak District, but superimposed on the lot is a cool, contemporary décor, and the hotel has all the facilities of a 21st-century hotel. Fresh produce from local suppliers, simple presentations and well-defined flavours are the kitchen's template, with everything made in-house, from pastry and bread to ice cream. Such commitment is evident in a starter of pan-seared scallops with pumpkin and cumin purée, Moroccan-spiced caramel and an apple dressing, and in main courses of pork fillet in Parma ham served with braised pig cheeks, apple and sage gravy, and swede and carrot dauphinoise, and seared fillet of gilt head bream in a sardine dressing with crab and tomato risotto. Puddings show the same consideration, be it lemon meringue pie with basil sorbet, or apple crumble soufflé with cheese ice cream.