Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons

If you're planning your first visit to dine chez Raymond, we can safely say you will not be disappointed. And that is first and foremost down to the fact that consistency is the name of the game here, that and excellence. Consistently excellent. Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons has been awarded five Rosettes in all 20 editions of The AA Restaurant Guide, and hats off to Monsieur Blanc for that. We'll get to the food in a minute, for it is the food which has won the plaudits, but a visit to this peaceful and beautiful Oxfordshire manor house is a joy for so many reasons. They could probably charge an entrance fee to the gardens with its sculptures, well-stocked greenhouses, little bridges and Japanese tea garden, so do make some time for a wander if the weather and daylight allow. And then there is the service. Exemplary is a good word to describe the experience, from beginning to end, and it feels effortless at times, the charm natural, the passion evident. Prices are high, but this is an experience to cherish, and to emphasise Blanc's egalitarian spirit, there's a children's menu that pays so much more than the usual lip service to the toleration of young people. The chef-patron and executive chef Gary Jones have never waivered from the belief that the quality of the produce is at the heart of every dish. Indeed, the organic kitchen garden here at Le Manoir was supplying the kitchen from the off, and these days it stretches for two acres and provides bountiful vegetables, fruits and herbs for the table (90 types of vegetable, no less, and 70 varieties of herbs). The food has evolved with the times, never chasing bandwagons or following fashions for the sake of it, but neither has it stood still. The French soul of the place still runs deep, everything looks stunning on the plate, flavour is king, and creative desires are nuanced by a subtle touch and clear-headed thinking. First-impressions count and the canapés positively spark with vitality - crab tart, vegetable fritter to name but two - and the bread...oh the bread. Eight different types of roll are offered up and difficult decisions must be made. The menu - à la carte, découverte and a variety of fixed-price, multi-course menus - are written in French with precise English translations, and there are further difficult decisions ahead. Perhaps the Cornish lobster will catch your eye, packed into ravioli and partnered with a perfectly balanced ginger and lemongrass bisque, alongside baby artichokes, samphire and a scattering of edible petals. Among main courses, roasted new season grouse makes a perfect autumnal dinner, with cabbage and bacon, a well-judged blackberry jus and some fabulous bread sauce. Or try the braised Cornish turbot with oyster, scallop and Scottish girolles. The supreme technical proficiency and consummately judged flavour combinations continue with desserts, where a pear almondine and caramel croustillant comes with a ginger sauce and sorbet.