Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons

This guidebook has been going for 17 years and Raymond Blanc's mellow stone, 15th-century manor-house hotel has been in every edition. And in every edition it has had five rosettes. That in itself is a remarkable feat of consistency, commitment and dedication (from Raymond, not us). But, the truly remarkable thing is Le Manoir has not stood still, not for a second of its 25 year life, and in every edition of the guide there has been something new to describe, whether it's the opening of the cookery school (1991) or simply wonderful dishes that have thrilled inspectors (see below). Any visit would not be complete without a stroll around the gardens - think of it as an exploration of le terroir, for 90 types of vegetables and over 70 varieties of herbs for the kitchen are grown in the Oxfordshire soil, plus there are life-size bronze statues, sculptures, a Japanese garden, teahouse and organic potager. The hotel itself is elegantly imposing, with mullioned windows and soaring chimneys, maintaining historic dignity without whilst embracing contemporary tastes within. The dining room is made up of a couple of interconnecting rooms, the main space being an expansive conservatory that has wonderful views during daylight hours and a charming glow in the evening. The service is a highlight of any visit, the staff well-drilled but not lacking personality. Gary Jones has been running the kitchen with Raymond since 1999 and, as always, the commitment is to modern French cooking, based around first-class, seasonal organic produce, with a light tone to many dishes. The rustic roots of Blanc's classical past are combined with contemporary ideas, bringing some perhaps unexpected flavours, but never over-working the dishes. Alongside the carte, fixed-price lunch and Les Classiques menus is the Découverte menu, a 10-course 'voyage of discovery' that brings on the newest dishes in the repertoire. A tartare of langoustine with a Japanese savoury custard is full of delightfully clear flavours, and confit of Landais duck liver sees a superb piece of foie gras, perfectly counter-pointed by pineapple and vanilla chutney and an artful stripe of bacon powder. Braised Cornish sole comes with a Falmouth Bay oyster, seaweed, cucumber and a sublime beurre blanc with a well-judged kick of wasabi. For dessert, Le Manoir tiramisù 'flavours' is a master-class in the balance of texture and flavours. Bread is a heavenly basket brimming with French tradition, and the wine list has an awesome 1,000 bins and the sommeliers on hand to do it justice.

M40 junct 7 follow A329 towards Wallingford. After 1m turn right, signed Great Milton and Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons
Nearest station: Oxford

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