Stravaigin

A three-floor operation, with a distinctly contemporary décor, modern art and quirky antiques, Stravaigin never seems to disappoint. The kitchen makes the best use of fresh Scottish ingredients, giving them a modern, international interpretation. West Coast mussels, for example, come with sweet chilli and coriander sauce, and cep and celeriac 'cappuccino' is served with parmesan doughnuts. Pumpkin gratin with tapenade, a ricotta dumpling and Puy lentil cream has been a full-on vegetarian option, sitting alongside a trad haggis, neeps and tatties. Momentum doesn't flag at dessert stage: witness the real triumph of deep-fried coconut rice pudding ice cream with toffee pineapple and mango slaw.