Rogano

The Exchange Place quarter of Glasgow may be home to the city's thriving café culture, but Rogano is no mere parvenu. Having opened in 1935, at the time the Cunard liner Queen Mary was being built on the Clyde, it, could teach the skinny-latte brigade a thing or two. The art-deco styling, captured at its most lustrous in the bar, brings a sense of bygone sophistication to the place, a vision of grand living reinforced by the presence of bowls of chilled champagne. The service approach is reassuringly formal and the kitchen, while definably modern in its orientation, manages to imbue most dishes with a sense of occasion. A partnership of scallops with bacon-wrapped black pudding in shallot-dressed watercress is handled with delicacy, but delivers big flavour punch, while the haggis comes with foie gras and a potato rösti, with a dressing of red onion marmalade. Fish dishes are generous in their scope, taking in grilled sea bass with a smoked haddock fishcake in mussel and saffron cream, while a main course of rabbit offers moist and tender meat, wrapped in Parma ham, accompanied by earthy beech mushrooms and a sweet garlic jus.