Four Seasons Hotel London at Canary Wharf

You may be enveloped within the corporate embrace of Canary Wharf, but the Four Seasons does its best to disavow the setting with its terrace tables looking on to the little courtyard garden and pool. Inside the Quadrato restaurant proper, a slick modern ambience of chocolate-brown banquettes, white cubic pillars and an open kitchen is the setting for a light approach to fairly traditional northern Italian cooking. A soft-boiled duck egg on a potato cake dressed in truffle oil is an appetising starter, and might be followed by one of the customary intermediate risottos or pastas, perhaps creamy-sauced smoked salmon penne with broccoli. A carefully timed slab of grilled tuna with puréed basil is a refreshing main dish, as an alternative to duck breast with figs in balsamic sauce, or grilled lamb cutlets with caponata. Classic tiramisu, or honey pannacotta with an emulsion of orange and pistachio, round things off in style.