Judge Jeffreys, of Bloody Assizes notoriety, is thought to have presided over quarter-sessions at this country hostelry in the hanging days, and the place was the model for the Sow and Acorn Inn in Hardy's Tess of the d'Urbervilles. Log fires blaze in Ham stone fireplaces in the oak-panelled bars, and there is a skittle alley to help while away the long Dorset nights. The locally-based cooking, which may be taken on the patio in fine weather, embraces the modern pub ethos, producing Thai fishcakes with cucumber, lime and coriander, cabbage-wrapped braised lamb with creamy mash in red wine and rosemary jus, and pear and almond tart with apricot compôte and vanilla ice cream.