The Stockbridge Restaurant

Named after the chic district of Edinburgh in which it's located, the Stockbridge occupies the basement of a Georgian house, reached down a flight of steps with fairylights twined about the wrought-iron railing. If you've wearied of understated monochrome, your senses will be restored by the room that awaits, where large modern still lifes and framed mirrors hang on the black-painted brick walls, and the brooding lighting level creates an intimate atmosphere. The surroundings encourage you to expect out of the ordinary cooking, and the kitchen by and large obliges, with multi-layered dishes designed to make bold statements. Start with seared scallops, parmesan-flaked crab risotto and avocado ice cream, before going on perhaps with a trio of duck preparations - breast, confit and foie gras - with a potato gâteau, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce. Desserts go more trad, with a plum and nut crumble and praline ice cream bringing up the rear.