The Kitchin

Part of the buzzy Leith waterfront scene, The Kitchin is an old whisky distillery fronting on to the piazza. The outer view may be serene enough, but inside is even more restful, a gently subdued atmosphere with soft lights and blinds, the better to coax your attention in the direction of the kitchen window, where you can see the team calmly working hard. Tom Kitchin lends his readily punning name to the place, and his culinary philosophy - 'From nature to plate' - is inscribed all over the menus. French-oriented technique of a very high order is applied to the best the Scots larder has to offer, with many out-of-the-ordinary ingredients showing up. Arisaig razorfish with chorizo and lemon confit is one starter, or there could be a duo of boned and rolled pig's cheek with roasted Anstruther langoustines, alongside a galette made from the crisply shredded pig's ear. The daily market menu is always worth a look, and might offer rump of Dornoch lamb with a brochette of the kidneys, served with peas à la française, braised lettuce hearts and tapenade. Memorable desserts include pear and Earl Grey crumble with Poire William ice cream.

In Leith opposite Scottish Executive building
Nearest station: Edinburgh Waverly

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