The Kitchin

An old whisky distillery in Leith seems an appropriate place for a chef passionate about Scottish ingredients to open his first restaurant. Driven by the mantra 'from nature to plate', Tom Kitchin and his wife Michaela have breathed new life into the old building and put it once again at the forefront of Scottish dynamism. There can surely be no greater advocate of fabulous Scottish produce than Tom, and when he brings his acute cooking skills to bear, tutored in French classicism from some of the best around, great things happen. The old building has scrubbed up very well indeed and now looks the part of a high-end dining establishment, but without any airs or graces; the colours chosen are from nature's palette, indeed reminiscent of a heather-filled glen, tables are left bare to expose the rich walnut tones, the kitchen is open to view behind a glass screen, and there's a palpable sense that you're at the centre of Scottish culinary goings on. The front-of-house team, largely French and thoroughly clued-up, imbue a sense of confidence. The best way to ensure things are done how you want is to do them yourself and thus shellfish arrive in the kitchen alive, all the butchery and filleting is done in-house, and every supplier is a valued cog in the chain. Seasonality, seasonality, seasonality - that is the name of the game. There's a good value set-lunch menu, a taster (Tom's Land and Sea Surprise), plus a carte that is bursting with appealing combinations and seasonal flavours. The spring menu brings forth a ragoût of sea kale from Essie Farm with seared hand-dived Orkney scallops, or razor clams (spoots they call them in these parts) from Arisaig with diced vegetables, chorizo and lemon confit. For main course, red mullet is seared and comes with bouillabaisse sauce and rouille, while saddle of Burnside Farm rabbit is stuffed with spinach and foie gras, served up with its crispy leg and seared lettuce. The clever combinations, spot-on timings, and technical flair are evident right to the end: Moss House Farm rhubarb, for example, in a tart with crème fraîche, perfectly partnered with a rhubarb sorbet, or mini chocolate soufflé with chocolate ice cream and blood orange marmalade.