Number One, The Balmoral

A classic of the great Railway Age, The Balmoral even has its own clock tower, and, with its Princes Street address, location next to Waverley Station, and views over the castle, it really is at the heart of the city. It's built to grand Victorian proportions and inside the scale and five-star luxury of it all will leave an impression. There are dining options aplenty - see also entry for Hadrian's - but it is the Number One restaurant that holds the number one position. It's a smartly done-out space courtesy of Olga Polizzi with copious artworks on richly lacquered walls, deep carpets, lavishly upholstered chairs and plenty of room between the crisply laid tables. The cooking is based on classical French thinking, but it looks and feels contemporary, with a good deal of creativity and technical flair on show. A meal consists of all the bells and whistles - canapé, amuse and petits fours - and there's even a trolley bringing round the array of breads on offer (spelt bread, perhaps, cut from a loaf at the table, or a smoked cheese version). Whether you go for the tasting menu with its tantalisingly brief dish descriptions, or delve into the fixed-price carte, you'll find first-class ingredients from top to bottom. Start with a perfectly balanced first course of sautéed foie gras with peach, gingerbread and truffle, or Corra Linn cheese and beetroot with hazelnuts and frozen apple. Main-course sirloin of beef is cooked sous-vide and comes with tongue and sweetbreads, asparagus spelt risotto and truffle sauce, or there might be turbot with squid linguine, parsnips and shellfish sauce. To finish, poached rhubarb with white chocolate pannacotta and custard doughnut is a stellar combination. The wine list does justice to the wonderful food, and so do the highly professional service team.