Aykley Heads House,
Aykley Heads,
DURHAM,
DH1 5TS
Among Terry Laybourne's group of restaurants is the effervescent brasserie-style Café 21 in Newcastle upon Tyne (see entry) and this place, which takes a more genteel approach to the dining experience. On the outskirts of Durham, the former farmhouse has plenty of rustic charm and delivers confidently refined bistro cooking. Cheddar cheese and spinach soufflé is a first course that reveals a sure hand at the stoves, or there's local ham with French mushy peas and a slow-cooked egg to confirm the Anglo-French credentials. Pork belly also gets the slow-cook treatment, with Toulouse sausage and white bean cassoulet, and for dessert there might be steamed syrup sponge with custard. There's a good value fixed-price menu available lunchtimes and early evenings.