The Seahorse

The Dartmouth outpost of Mitch Tonks's seafood-based empire is an elegant, dynamic venue with plenty to distract the eye. An open-to-view kitchen sets the tone, small lamps create artful pools of light, and the windows are screened so that passers-by can't squint in at your dinner. A wall-sized wine store makes a strong statement, as does the Italian formatting of the short menus. The Tonks philosophy is all about powerful simplicity, seen perhaps in a dish of carpetshell clams in linguine, seasoned with bayleaf and chilli, or perhaps chicken livers grilled over the fire with sage and aged vinegar. The sea business really comes into its own with a main course such as John Dory roasted on the bone in a paste of tomatoes, olives and anchovies, or there could be grilled sea bass, simply served with herbs and hollandaise. Dessert might be a fig (just the one) and almond tart, or boozy tiramisù.