Cricklade House

Built at the turn of the last century, Cricklade is a handsome country house on the edge of the Cotswolds. A flight of steps sweeps up from the lawns towards an original conservatory that runs across the full extent of the façade, its elevated position ensuring panoramic views over the acres of rolling golf course and Wiltshire downland. It's a delightful prospect for a light evening, and if the decor looks a touch retro, that's all in keeping with the period style. Terry Greenhouse's menus are not about retro nostalgia at all but more the tried-and-true formula of gentle country-house cooking, which scores some notable successes. The in-vogue pairing of goats' cheese and beetroot produces fine contrast and visual appeal, garnished as it is with celeriac remoulade and dressed in aged balsamic. Main course might turn up simply cooked fish, such as a whole grilled lemon sole with prawn butter sauce, or pedigree meat like slow-cooked pork belly with a crisp-fried beignet, creamed potato and thyme-scented jus. Great citric zing brings a dessert of traditional key lime pie with lemon sherbet ice into pin-sharp focus.