The North Hill Hotel

North Hill's sunny yellow façade paints a cheery face onto the exterior of a handsome Georgian building in the historic heart of Colchester, giving a gentle hint at the breezy, rather funky contemporary décor within. Bright and swirly artwork feeds into the cool, pared-back look of the Green Room bistro, where plain wooden tables and chairs are set against sage-green walls, and an unbuttoned vibe completes the setting for the upbeat modern cooking. The kitchen's output is driven by well-sourced local ingredients treated without undue fuss: perhaps warm smoked duck breast with a fig, green bean and grape salad to open the show, ahead of well-timed sea bass fillets with toasted almond and caper butter, wilted spinach, and herb-crushed new potatoes. Meatier fare runs to slow-cooked venison with mushrooms and smoked bacon puff pastry pie. For dessert, there could be elderflower pannacotta served with a warm vanilla doughnut.