Le Champignon Sauvage

Strolling past this unassuming terrace building in the Montpelier part of the town there is nothing to suggest what culinary stirrings lie within. The décor is smart and erring on the traditional side - an unpretentious, sunny yellow-painted dining room with modern art on the walls and well-spaced tables neatly clothed in white linen. It is the food that leaves the lasting impression. David Everitt-Matthias is a chef dedicated to his craft, always to be found in the kitchen and never standing still. Luckily he found the time to write his first book, 'essence', in 2007. His cooking is innovative though not distracted by flights of fancy, precise without being precious, and at its core is a feeling for the produce itself from the humble to the refined. France, both old and modern, is the inspiration for many of the preparations and ideas but much of the produce is local. An amuse-bouche consisting of a shot glass of Moroccan-spiced split pea soup is topped with a coconut foam, while breads - bacon and onion brioche among them - set the bar at a high level. Presentation skills are highly developed as seen in a starter of seared squid partnered with Gloucestershire Old Spot pork, the meat placed on a creamy mousseline, with crisp toasted hazelnuts and a deliciously light hazelnut foam - a first-class first course. Flavours combine to maximum effect in a main course of Dexter beef with salted orange, aubergine and pine nut 'tapenade' and in a fish dish of zander with a ceps casserole, duck hearts and red wine emulsion. Warm cherry tart exhibits considerable skill in the making and comes with lemon verbena ice cream and cherry compôte and the creativity of the kitchen carries on to the very end with elegant petits fours. Service, headed up by David Everitt-Matthias, is both friendly and knowledgeable of the menu.

S of town centre, on A40, near Cheltenham College
Nearest station: Cheltenham Spa

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