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Le Champignon Sauvage

24-28 Suffolk Road, CHELTENHAM, GL50 2AQ

4 rosettes

It won't be long before we can count on the fingers of two hands the number of benchmark restaurants surviving from the first great post-war heyday of British dining in the 1980s. David and Helen Everitt-Matthias have been presiding here close on 30 years, and the place still feels as freshly minted as when it first emerged. The room is as quietly refined as ever, hung with striking modern artworks, its chatelaine Helen overseeing with gracious ease. David's cooking retains its cutting edge, marrying new techniques to classical French roots, coaxing soul-stirring depths of intensity out of often comparatively humble ingredients, and according the less humble their due dignity. It takes a particularly confident kind of ingenuity to think of stuffing a pig trotter with ox tongue and snails, and even more panache to bring it off, saucing it with roasted garlic cream for a bold, resonant opener. Butter-poached lobster is lured towards the land too with Jerusalem artichoke, pear and sorrel, and the same robustness is applied to main fish dishes that might take in halibut with cep cream, baby parsnips, chestnuts and black kale. Game is regally served, red-leg partridge attended by potato and fig terrine, morteau sausage and kohlrabi choucroute. Then there are desserts designed to create memorable waves, as when rhubarb and hibiscus and their combined sorbet adorn a custard made with duck eggs, or bergamot parfait has its aromatic quotient boosted with liquorice cream and orange jelly.

Further information

Tel: 01242 573449
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email

Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 10 days Xmas, 3 wks Jun

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: David Everitt-Matthias
Number of seats: 40
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

2 Course lunch from: £26.00
3 Course lunch from: £32.00
2 Course dinner from: £26.00
3 Course dinner from: £32.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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S of town centre, on A40, near Cheltenham College
Nearest station: Cheltenham Spa

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