Le Champignon Sauvage

While some restaurants come and go in a blaze of publicity, Le Champignon Sauvage goes quietly about its business, and has been doing so with profound success for nearly 25 years. David and Helen Everett-Matthias's restaurant in the historic spa town is a destination restaurant and the epitome of the chef-patron model. If David isn't at the stoves, it isn't open. The interior is fittingly charming and neutral, an intimate space with generously-sized tables, sunny yellow and blue hues and bold modern art on the walls. Front of house is Helen's area of expertise and it plays a big part in the overall allure of the place, being by turns informed, professional and relaxed. David's cooking has its roots in the classics but that doesn't mean he's not looking forward; he describes his food as mixing terroir and modern French and this seems a fair assessment of dishes that deal in the humbler cuts of meat alongside the more luxurious, and combine traditional preparations alongside some slightly more à la mode techniques. Foraging has long been a part of life here so expect some lesser-known wild ingredients too. Start perhaps with a wonderfully focused dish of butter-poached dabs with new season's peas, onions and wilted ground elder, or seared flank of Dexter beef with Hereford snails and parsley purée. Moving onto main courses, sea bream might be paired with baby squid, chorizo cream and citrus dressing, or Winchcombe venison with salt- and burdock-baked golden beetroot and roasted quince. Flavours are to the fore all the way through, judged to a tee, including in desserts such as muscovado parfait with bergamot cream and mandarin jelly, or vanilla cheesecake with salted chicory root mousse and bitter chocolate sorbet. The excellent wine list focuses on France and the starting prices are very reasonable.