Gidleigh Park

The bucolic drive out from the village of Chagford heightens expectations that are exceeded when the Arts and Crafts house comes into view. It really is a splendid place. Built in the 1920s, it has a distinguished air about it and is surrounded by 54 acres of prime Devon countryside on the edge of Dartmoor, with the River Teign flowing across the sweeping lawn. And things are no less impressive when you step through the door. Gideligh Park is a hotel of considerable style run with an attention to detail that is second to none. Take the bedrooms, for example, which are decorated with real charm and have their own private steam and sauna facilities, and the public rooms, which are elegant without being overbearing. In the kitchen a team of 23, under the auspices of Michael Caines and headed up by Ian Webber, turn out refined, razor-sharp and mightily appealing dishes with French foundations, an abundance of regional produce and plenty of contemporary verve. There are three dining rooms, each smartly understated, with tables dressed up to the nines, and manned by an impeccable service team. When the canapés include turbot with lemongrass velouté you might have a suspicion that you're in for a treat, and when the breads arrive you'll know for sure that this is a top-drawer restaurant that cuts not a single corner. A first course of Brixham scallops reveals the skills on show when it comes to the balancing of flavours: the accompanying celeriac and truffle purée is judged to a tee, and soy and truffle vinaigrette is seemingly a match made in heaven (at least in these hands). All of the ingredients are of the highest order, not least the saddle of venison that comes in a main course with braised belly pork and a rich, deeply luscious chestnut purée, roasted vegetables and raisins soaked in jasmine tea. Everything looks beautiful on the plate, including the hot apple tart, which comes with a perfectly balanced Somerset cider coulis. There are Signature and Tasting menus adding their support to the carte, and a set lunch menu, which is quite good value in the scheme of things (it will come as no surprise that Gidleigh is at the higher end of the pricing spectrum). The wine list matches everything else for its appeal and the attention to detail lavished upon it.