Gidleigh Park

It's probably not long enough to appear on a list of great car journeys of the world, but the one-and-a-half-mile drive along the country lane from Chagford to Gidleigh Park should be considered for inclusion simply because of the anticipation generated as you wait for the house to come into view. It's in quite some spot - the black-and-white mock-Tudor hotel stands in idyllic gardens with the River Teign tumbling through the grounds. A pre- or post -prandial stroll in the 54 acres of grounds is something you shouldn't miss out on even if the weather isn't on your side; saunter among delightful terraced gardens and beech woods, on manicured lawns and beside the riverbank, but rest assured you can still enjoy the views from the inside if it is blowing a hoolie outside. The house is impeccably turned-out and luxuriously finished without losing its charm and comforting appeal. There are three dining rooms, each with a slightly different style - one is a rather more contemporary room, another is a light space with access out on to the garden terrace and the third is oak panelled and traditional in style. Michael Caines's cooking is based on first-class seasonal produce and classical principles, with lots of luxury, intricate presentations and plenty of creative touches. Prices are as high as you might expect given the setting and the style of food. Canapés start the ball rolling (including a delicious crab custard) before, from the à la carte menu, a first-course pan-fried langoustines with rigatoni and black truffle, and main-course Hatherleigh venison with braised pork belly, red cabbage and a fig and chestnut purée. A plate of rhubarb, featuring mousse, crumble and sorbet, is an outstanding finish, although strictly speaking that will be the superb petits fours.

From Chagford Sq turn right at Lloyds TSB into Mill St, after 150yds right fork, across x-rds into Holy St. Restaurant 1.5m
Nearest station: Exeter St Davids

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