22 Mill Street Restaurant & Rooms

Chagford can't have changed all that much in the last several hundred years, except for all the cars. But down a little lane a short stroll from the centre of the village is a restaurant with rooms that definitely feels of these times. It's perfectly traditional on the outside, but within it has a light and gently contemporary finish - lots of pale wood, fashionably neutral colour tones and well-chosen furniture - and makes an appealing setting for the classy cooking. And there is some good cooking going on here. The menu deals in high quality regional ingredients, everything is made in-house, and there are lots of tempting combinations. Start, perhaps, with haddock poached in brown butter with goats' milk, almonds and sorrel, or a whole carrot cooked in dripping and served with warm Sharpham brie, steamed nettles and ale. Next up, braised and roasted pork belly with smoked cockles, sea vegetables and stout and cockle juice, and to finish, warm rice pudding with aired milk and a jam and sloe sorbet. There's a tasting menu, too.