This long-established stylish little restaurant with rooms has seen a new lease of life. It may well be tucked away down a quiet lane in a pretty little Dartmoor town, but there's nothing twee about 22 - it's a confidently fashionable place, with wooden louvred blinds and floorboards, bright works of art and classy toffee-hued leather chairs. The impressive cooking is in the modern British idiom, delivering clean, balanced, punchy flavour combinations while showing due respect for quality local and seasonal ingredients. Seared foie gras with raisins, candied walnuts and sherry reduction is an up-to-the-minute first course, followed by, perhaps, seared loin of wild Exmoor venison teamed with spiced red cabbage, parsnip and confit shallot, and to finish, a baked dark chocolate fondant has an accompanying crème fraîche sorbet to cut through the luscious richness.