Dublin Road, CAVAN, Co Cavan, ROI,
Sharing the same site as its factory, Ireland's second oldest crystal manufacturer also has a smart contemporary hotel, a leisure club and the clean-lined Opus One restaurant. It's a relaxed spot done out with hard wood floors, buttoned banquettes and food that chimes in tune with the setting: confident, modern and uncomplicated. Smoked salmon roulade stuffed with crabmeat and served with a baby leaf salad and capers is a simple opening gambit that works well, before pan-fried hake partnered with salsify purée and confit, and champagne cream sauce. Dessert offers the familiar comforts of apple crumble with crème anglaise and vanilla ice cream.
On outskirts of Cavan town, N3, straight over rdbt, hotel immediately on left
Nearest station: Longford