The Bybrook at the Manor

There's nothing quite like a long, sweeping drive through 365 acres of grounds, with a championship golf course somewhere off in the distance, to pique expectations. The Manor House doesn't disappoint. From a 14th-century original, it has been progressively embellished into the textbook country-house hotel we see before us. Ravishing views over the Italian gardens are afforded by the tall windows in the Bybrook restaurant, staff are punctiliously helpful and professional, and the cooking from Richard Davies is memorable for its high shine and its dynamic approach. Take a duck egg, cook it slowly but so that it retains a runny centre, and team it with razor-thin pancetta, delicately timed foie gras and a truffled celeriac emulsion sauce, and you have many people's idea of a luxurious opening course. Timing is all, as in a main course of turbot that comes poached in red wine with a purée of parsnip and a big, belting sauce of olives and anchovies, offset by the gentling effect of some baby gem lettuce. Slow cooking might also be applied to fillet of beef, with its accoutrements of wild mushroom ravioli and cauliflower soubise. Thin, crisp, buttery pastry distinguishes a tarte fine of apple with matching caramel ice cream and sauce.

M4 junct 17, follow signs for Castle Combe via Chippenham
Nearest station: Chippenham

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