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The Bybrook at The Manor House Hotel

CASTLE COMBE, Chippenham, SN14 7HR

3 rosettes

The village of Castle Combe finds itself at the heart of a particularly modern paradox. So beautifully preserved in aspic is it that it has earned itself a tidy living in recent years as a film-set, with Steven Spielberg's War Horse of 2011 among its more recent credits. When the sound technicians, makeup artists and Jeremy Irvine have left town, though, it settles back into unruffled pastoral tranquillity, a picture of serenity in which the originally 14th-century manor house is a key part, the thwock of golfballs notwithstanding. The interiors have not been spruced up by punk Parisian designers, but look as delightfully dated as its target constituency would wish. On the other hand, the cooking, under Richard Davies, aims to cut a contemporary dash, with tip-top ingredients and a gradually developing tendency to complexity in the armoury. That latter factor is seen in a main course of pork, a three-way assembly of richly gelatinous cheek, expressively flavoured rolled fillet and over-smoked belly, which are accompanied by boldly tart apple purée and shallot-studded mashed potato. Much of the produce is grown in the kitchen garden, and much else sourced from organic growers in the village, and helps to give liftoff to first courses such as seared scallops and chorizo with quince, cucumber and pickled mooli, or flame-grilled mackerel with puréed celeriac, compressed apple and shaved walnuts. The timing of truffled risotto is impressive, as too the oyster beignet and parsley purée accompanying it, and the confidence with assertive flavours brings on golden raisins and chocolate, not for afters but with main-course rump of Downland lamb. The technical wizardry ensures that interest is maintained at dessert stage, when a blackcurrant bavarois on a nutritious oat base comes with a portion of white chocolate ice cream and little lemon doughnuts.

Further information

Tel: 01249 782206
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Open/closed

Open all year.
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for lunch: Mon-Tue

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Richard Davies
Number of seats: 60
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 3
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.
No children under L only.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
The Bybrook at The Manor House Hotel, Castle combe

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Directions

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M4 junct 17, follow signs for Castle Combe via Chippenham
Nearest station: Chippenham

Local information for SN14 7HR

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