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Rogan & Company Restaurant

The Square, CARTMEL, LA11 6QD

3 rosettes

Simon Rogan is to Cartmel as Heston Blumenthal is to Bray, a towering culinary presence in an unassuming little town. The five-rosette L'Enclume may be the big ticket, but isn't the only Rogan game in town. The secondary place would be a strong contender wherever it was beamed down. As it is, it sits at the riverside watching the ducks, a two-storey Lakeland house of roughcast stone and ineffable charm, surrounded by a rolling soft-focus landscape divided by dry-stone walls, with Cartmel Priory looming in the background. Kevin Tickle has taken over at the stoves, and proves himself another fine exponent of the Rogan genre, offering tirelessly inventive fixed-price menus built from thoroughbred Cumbrian produce, much of it sourced from the Rogan farm a little way down the valley, some of it foraged. Attribution is all: it matters that your slow-poached egg is from a Marans chicken, its richness supported by salt-baked yellow turnip, truffle and toasted seeds, or that your roast ox tongue and smoked bone marrow arrive in a nest of 'spring offerings' from nearby Aynsome Farm. At main, there's Langdale mutton from the fells with roast parsnip, ramsons and capers, as well as suckling British Lop, which may sound like something you were called at school, but is an old native breed of porker, served with hedgerow garlic and carrots glazed in mead. Butter-poached halibut, shrimps and kohlrabi comes with scurvy grass, which you may also have been called at school, unless you know it better as spoonwort, while roasted cod is matched with fermented garlic, salsify and sea greens. Desserts are quite as pastoral and as dazzling, perhaps iced yoghurt with honeycomb, a granola fired up with edible flowers and bee's pollen, or meadowsweet mousse with wild chervil and apple, but spare a thought for the British artisan cheeses and chutney.

Further information

Tel: 015395 35917
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Open all year.
Days closed: Sun
Days closed for lunch: Mon

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Simon Rogan, Kevin Tickle
Number of seats: 40
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

3 Course lunch from: £28.50
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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From M6 junct 36 follow signs for A590. Turn off at sign for Cartmel village
Nearest station: Grange over Sands

Local information for LA11 6QD

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