Austells

In a small parade of shops on the road to Carlyon Bay, Austell's is a restaurant of cool, uncluttered elegance, with a wooden floor, artwork on plain walls and slatted-back chairs at wooden tabletops; it's split-level, with diners on the raised area so they can see the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. Seasonality means the menus change regularly, and everything is made in-house, from breads (among them maybe rosemary and pesto) to petits fours. The cooking, based on contemporary British ideas, is honest, accurate and of clearly defined upfront flavours. Typical of starters is a plate of seared scallops (local, of course) with chorizo, pea mousse and herb salad - a good balance of tastes and textures. Among main courses, peach purée and jus infused with foie gras add an extra oomph to pink, crisp-skinned duck breast, served with wilted spinach and sautéed potatoes. End with a theatrical flourish with basil crème brûlée, served flaming, with the sugar still caramelising, accompanied by velvety poached strawberries and punchy strawberry ice cream.