Midsummer House Restaurant

It is hard to imagine a sight more self-effacingly English than this simple Victorian villa in its walled garden along the banks of the River Cam. In this case, however, appearances are deceptive: the setting may be the epitome of green-and-pleasant tranquillity, but Midsummer House fizzes with culinary fireworks. Daniel Clifford's seemingly unstoppable stream of inventiveness, harnessed to a rare level of talent, has given Cambridge a top-flight destination restaurant. Aperitifs in the sophisticated upstairs bar with watery vistas from the river-view terrace make an irresistible way to start the experience, before settling into the pleasantly simple conservatory dining room, a modishly minimal affair involving slate floors, classy fabrics and crunchy white linen on a mere dozen well-spaced tables looking out over the walled herb garden. Just enough, then, to impart a feeling of well-being without distracting from the business in hand: after all, it's the food that is the star. Clifford's cooking shows a rare level of technical expertise, always pushing the boundaries of textural and flavour contrasts without overstepping the mark into gratuitous attention seeking. This is the kind of class act that can only be pulled off with an operation that is sound from the basics up: impeccably-sourced top-class ingredients and a well-drilled kitchen brigade all marching in step. Terse menu descriptions are tight-lipped about the exact composition of each dish, but rest assured, whether you go the tasting menu or à la carte route, the wizardry kicks in from the first amuse-bouche. Cannelloni of Cornish crab brings superb quality crustacean inside a delicate pasta tube set atop a disc of Bloody Mary jelly with a smooth quenelle of avocado and slivers of pickled cucumber, all perfectly balanced and executed. Main courses bring on more invention - sautéed sea bream is expertly cooked and arrives dressed to thrill with aubergine caviar, a rich buttered tomato sauce and a colourful mosaic of courgette, aubergine, red and green peppers, while velvety pan-fried calves' liver with pommes purée is pointed up by creamed leeks with a hint of lime and a rich red wine sauce. Standards are maintained to the end, with salted caramel, pistachio biscuit and granita of dragon fruit and banana. A Gallic core runs through the enterprise, from the polished, largely French service team, to the exceptional wine list - 1947 Pétrus, anyone?>