Bartley Lodge

Built as a hunting lodge in the 18th century, this country-house hotel is reached via a meandering drive through landscaped grounds. Sip on a drink in the panelled lounge, with its ornate coving, before moving on to the restaurant, a large, high-ceilinged room graced with a chandelier and done out in Wedgwood blue and gold. Service is engaging, and the menus reflect the comforting, cosseting surroundings. Twice-baked local goats' cheese soufflé comes as no surprise, but there may also be a salad of seared squid with chorizo, pepper and pea shoots, followed by an eight-ounce chargrilled rib-eye steak with all the trimmings, or grilled mackerel fillets with gooseberry sauce and wilted spinach.