Deep in the Cotswolds, Dormy House started life in the Stuart era as a rather impressive farmhouse, but makes an even more impressive modern country hotel. Sensitively converted throughout, with an eye to lightness and elegance in the décor, it has an understated contemporary dining room with high-backed chairs, a blond wood floor and good napery. Fixed-price menus explore the country-house idiom with commendable flair. Smoked Gressingham duck breast makes one of those fashionable meaty starters, with puréed raisins, glazed orange and watercress, and then there might be salmon on pea and mint risotto, or crisp-cooked belly of local pork with black pudding, apple and vanilla purée, crushed potatoes, and Savoy cabbage with bacon - something for everyone. Finish with mango parfait in passionfruit syrup, or a trio of chocolate treats - tart, brownie and ice cream.