Riverside Restaurant

Owned by the same family since the 60s began to swing, this relaxed riverfront restaurant in West Bay on the Jurassic Coast feels as if water is on every side. The venue fits the watery setting with a stylish beachcomber-chic look in shades of lavender blue with pale wood tables, making a perfect backdrop to a menu that majors in impeccably-fresh fish and seafood. The kitchen's approach is admirably simple: take what's just been landed and don't faff around with it too much. Who could quibble with classics such as Portland oysters, grilled lobster with garlic butter, or pan-fried gambas partnered with a Thai sauce of coconut milk, lemongrass, lime leaves and chilli? Grilled turbot with spring onion and herb butter, and sautéed samphire, or baked brill with crab and spring onion croquette could come next; meat addicts might find cider-roasted pork belly with horseradish gratin and peppercorn sauce.