Peterstone Court

A rolling programme of upgrades has seen Peterstone Court trading ever upwards to become a polished gastronomic bolt-hole with a delightful pocket-sized spa to massage all the senses. The looming peak of Pen-y-Fan in the brooding Brecon Beacons is an elemental backcloth at this splendid Georgian country house, handy for long walkies with Rover who is also a welcome guest. Inside, the interior is a funky blend of eclectic contemporary style and period elegance, with a soothingly minimal white restaurant as the setting for seriously good modern cooking. The operation is run by people who are passionate about food, starting from the ground up, with meat and poultry brought just seven miles up the road from the family's Glaisfer farm, and treated with due respect by an adept kitchen team. Modern Welsh ideas might kick off with goats' cheese pannacotta with grape and walnut salad and grain mustard and honey dressing, followed by modish dishes built around different cuts of meat - roast rack and confit shoulder of local lamb with dauphinoise potato, and broccoli and carrot purée, say, or loin and slow-braised leg of rabbit with fondant potato, wilted spinach, celeriac and chestnuts.