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The Waterside Inn

Ferry Road, BRAY, SL6 2AT

4 rosettes

The Roux brothers' first foray out of London in 1972 brought them to an old inn on the upper reaches of the Thames. It still looks the part from outside - timbered, low-roofed - although presumably nobody parked your car for you when it was just a pub. Inside is an affable cocoon of old-school civility, the dining room opening up to the little jetty and the soothing plash of the river in summer. Under Alain Roux and his team leader Diego Masciaga, the place trades in transcendent classical French gastronomy. How else to explain the careful shoehorning of braised snails, mushroom duxelle and sauce béarnaise into little choux buns, or the gilding of flaked crabmeat with oscietra caviar? Many of the dishes have earned their places on the various menus through time-hallowed tradition, such that regulars would revolt at their removal. Main courses such as poached sole fillet with crayfish and morels in basil sauce, or rabbit with chestnuts in Armagnac sauce, undergird the whole experience, but there are peripheral hints of what's au courant elsewhere, as when the glorious Challandais duck comes with celeriac and peanut purée in a sauce of grapes. The French and English cheeses are sublime, but don't shun the dessert menu, which is probably the most experimental phase of the whole meal, producing Norwegian blood orange and ginger omelette with bourbon parfait, or honey cream cheese mousse, garnished with gariguette strawberries and vanilla sorbet. An extra whip-round may be needed to make a start on the monumental wine list.

Further information

Tel: 01628 620691
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email

Open/closed

Days closed: Mon-Tue
Dates closed: 26 Dec-1 Jan
Sunday lunch available.

Restaurant information

Cooking type: French
Chef: Alain Roux
Number of seats: 75
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
No children under 12 yrs.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

3 Course lunch from: £62.00
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £53.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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M4 junct 8/9, A308 (Windsor) then B3028 to Bray. Restaurant clearly signed
Nearest station: Maidenhead

Local information for SL6 2AT

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