The Waterside Inn

The gourmet-magnet village of Bray is rarely out of the news these days, but it is fitting to remember that the Waterside Inn is where the fuss all started. The venerable Roux brothers put the timeless Thames-side spot on the culinary map in 1972 and the Waterside is still in the business of serving timeless, world-class food cooked with passion and skill, under the guidance of Alain Roux, who took over the helm from his father Michel in 2001. Alain closed the restaurant for three months at the start of 2009 to install a new state-of-the-art kitchen, so expect even more streamlined preparation and service, plus the theatre of a new rôtisserie for spit-roasting suckling pig, duck and chicken. On the service front, the Waterside is a benchmark against which all others may be judged: you're in polished, professional hands before you're even out of the car, with the luxury touch of valet parking (a necessity, at any rate, given the limited space). Well-drilled staff offer faultless standards of skills and knowledge as well as chatty and completely un-snooty service. On a balmy day, head straight for the romantic waterside terrace to sip bubbly and nibble canapés, while watching fish splash and the odd boat scull by. Inside, the interior has the plush, homely comfort of a bourgeois - if rather upmarket - French country auberge in lush hues of green and gold, with hand-painted floral frescoes and walls of mirrors that create an expansive feeling of space; most tables get a river view through vast picture windows that open up the garden-like room to the Thames. The cooking and service are defiantly, classically French so expect the very best in opulent ingredients from the UK, France and further afield, and a cerebral approach to balance and understanding of flavours. The depth of your pockets will decide whether you go for a fixed-price lunch, five-course Menu Exceptionnel, or eye-watering à la carte options. Whichever you choose, long-standing favourites sit alongside dishes that make an effort to move with the times; all are prepared with the highest levels of skill and exceptional clarity of flavour. To start, shining sushi-grade tuna tartare is served with a fondue of confit peppers, coulis of gem lettuce and caviar. Next, loin of venison in a pastry crust with wild mushrooms, Hermitage wine sauce and blackcurrant vinegar is a triumphant balance of ingredients and flavour. At dessert, a classic apple tarte Tatin with cinnamon ice cream is as good as it gets. The wine list is an outstanding piece of work that waves the flag for aristocrats of the Gallic wine world; prices start at 'cor blimey'.

M4 junct 8/9, A308 (Windsor) then B3028 to Bray. Restaurant clearly signed
Nearest station: Maidenhead

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