The Waterside Inn

Though Bray may have become the epicentre of British gastronomy, this corner of the village will be forever France. Since 1972, the celebrated Waterside and the Roux family - a name synonymous with fine food - have been offering their special blend of classic-French-cuisine-meets-quintessential-English setting here. The Roux personnel may have changed, with son Alain having assumed the mantle of chef-patron from his father Michel in 2001, but standards at the Waterside never falter. Service here is impeccable and as good as it gets; traditional maybe, slick, polished, professional and knowledgeable, but unstuffy, friendly and genuine, and the valet parking adds just another touch of pampering. The lovely timbered building on the water's edge sports a classic, elegant dining room and, while most tables have a view of the river, the tiered terrace at the back is a magical setting to sip champagne and nibble canapés on a warm summer day watching Thames life go by. Inside, the colour scheme is green and gold, with hand-painted frescoes of flowers and lots of mirrors giving an illusion of space. Large plate-glass windows offer diners those views over the Thames, while tables come clothed in heavy white linen set off by fresh orchids, and vases of fresh lilies further complement the room's garden theme. Like the service, the food still remains rooted in classical French, so expect impeccable ingredients, luxury, high skill and clear flavours to be delivered on a repertoire of fixed-price lunch, five-course menu Exceptionnel and a lengthy and appealing carte. Take a saddle of milk-fed lamb stuffed with morels and served with baby vegetables and a minted hollandaise sauce, and perhaps a warm rhubarb soufflé enhanced with raspberries to finish. The extensive and equally classy wine list stays as patriotically Gallic as the food, while peripherals like breads, amuse-bouche, pre-desserts and petits fours all hold form through to the end. (Note, due to major refurbishment of the kitchen, The Waterside is currently planned to close from Boxing Day 2008 to the middle of February 2009.)

M4 junct 8/9, A308(Windsor) then B3028 to Bray. Restaurant clearly signed
Nearest station: Maidenhead

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