The Fat Duck

Our television screens have seen a lot more of Mr Blumenthal over the course of the year as he's served up a series of historical feasts and battled to revive a chain of roadside restaurants. His relaxed manner and easy charm work well on the telly and he makes the most of his time on the box to get across his philosophy. A chef's statement on the website aims to do the same. He wants us to understand, amongst other things, the physiological and psychological complexities of taste and to appreciate that he values tradition whilst embracing innovation. Head to the posh Thames-side village of Bray to see for yourself. It will set you back a few quid, but will leave an impression that will linger longer in the memory than just about anything else you might spend the one hundred and thirty pounds on (that's the cost of the tasting menu). The disarming unpretentiousness of the place, both outside and in, makes the experience all the more enjoyable; staff work like a finely-tuned Swiss watch as they engage with the customers with charm and professionalism. You can tell it's an old building but everything inside is comfortably contemporary with some bright modern artworks adding a bit of individuality; tables are a little close together, but not so much as to cause anxiety. The carte and tasting menu are available lunch and dinner (no bargain lunch here, I'm afraid) and the latter seems to be the popular choice, customers deciding, most likely, that you only live once. The obvious thing each of the procession of courses has in common is they are based on superb produce. Snail porridge is Hereford snails, beautifully cooked, with shaved Jabugo ham, fennel lightly dressed in walnut oil and parsley purée mixed with oatmeal - a divine combination that does not defy good sense, simply teases with its name. If you're expecting a bit of science, roast foie gras 'Benzaldehyde', with almond fluid gel, cherry and almond chamomile, will not disappoint, but it makes sense when informed the chemical compound is a component of the scent of almonds; the dish is a delight to eat, full of thrilling flavours. Sounds of the Sea is a lot of fun, served up with an i-Pod to deliver aural stimulation alongside the tuna, mackerel, halibut and three types of seaweed. There's more, of course, plenty more, and it's all world class, even the wine list, and as you head out onto the pavement you'll have an even greater understanding of what makes Heston tick.

M4 junct 8/9 (Maidenhead) take A308 towards Windsor, turn left into Bray. Restaurant in centre of village on right
Nearest station: Maidenhead

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