Hinds Head

One of Heston Blumenthal's three Bray outposts (see entries for The Fat Duck and The Crown) is a traditional inn dating from the 15th century, complete with oak panelling and beams, open fires, comfortable leather-look seats and a child-friendly, casual atmosphere. There's none of Heston's molecular gastronomy here; rather, the intention is to revive the traditions of hostelry dining, keeping things simple and straightforward, with dishes defined by bold, upfront flavours. Chicken liver parfait is a textbook example, and other starters could be snail hash (from an 1884 recipe, says the menu), and a salad of beetroot, goats' curd, orange and pumpkin seeds. Quality and timings are never in doubt, seen in roast fillet of cod with celeriac purée, sultanas and salt cod, a winning combination, and veal chop with cabbage and onions and classic sauce Reform. Desserts recreate some long-forgotten dishes: try rhubarb and custard quaking pudding, or wassailing caramelised butter loaf with apple and Pomona.