This elegant Georgian mansion certainly makes the most of its idyllic setting on the shores of Lake Windermere: a more arresting scene of Lakeland beauty is hard to imagine, with immaculately landscaped gardens looking across the lake to the wild fells. Inside are all the elements of a classic country-house hotel - antiques, oil paintings and a general air of plushly-furnished luxury. An aperitif at the ornate solid oak and intricate glass bar recycled from Blackpool Tower is a good plan, before settling into the traditionally formal dining room. There's nothing stuck in the past about what leaves the kitchen, however: this is creative, ambitious contemporary British cooking. Crisp sea bass and grilled langoustine share a plate with citrus grains, seafood emulsion and a ras el hanout wafer, then roast loin and crisp belly of Gloucestershire Old Spot pork arrive with broccoli purée, buttered morels and Calvados sauce.