Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel

The aptly-titled Highcliff Marriott Hotel lords it from its perch on Bournemouth's West Cliff, basking in views across the resort and its Blue Flag beaches. Externally, the place is still a snow-white grande dame of Victorian vintage, but once inside, it is clear that the chintz has been well and truly chucked. Right in tune with the new image, the Highcliff Grill is looking pretty slick with its modern brasserie-style décor involving bare darkwood tables and funky cherry and lime green seating. The cooking plays a straight bat: contemporary, but sticking to the unfussy grill concept with a mix of modern and classic dishes built on well-sourced materials. Chicken liver and Madeira parfait with pear chutney and pickled walnuts is a tried-and-true starter done right, then grilled fillet of sea trout appears in the company of a fluffy potato crêpe, intense beetroot confit, curly kale and chervil hollandaise. Awaiting at the end is a textbook melting centre within a chocolate fondant teamed with chocolate ice cream and a crunchy praline.