Trehellas House Hotel & Restaurant

Trehellas House has worn a few hats over the years since it was built in the early 18th century: initially an inn that also served as the local court house (trials must have been entertaining after a few flagons of ale...), then a farm, and a pub once more in the '70s. Nowadays it has traded up to a country-house hotel with an appealing restaurant, where low beams and slate-flagged floors set the scene for punchy modern cooking. Effective dishes are delivered without undue fuss, and Cornish produce is at the heart of it all. Start with partridge and juniper casserole with peppercorn rice and parsnip crisps, followed by St Ives Bay sea bass with ginger, lemon and pepper linguine and mussel cream. Artisan Cornish cheeses are hard to resist, but the incurably sweet of tooth might finish with sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and clotted cream.