A Grade II listed conversion of an 18th-century courthouse, the restaurant here is an appealing room, with beams in the low ceiling and a slate floor. The kitchen sets to with fine Cornish produce and has assembled a thoroughly modern menu that encompasses slow-roast belly pork with black pudding, blue cheese, rocket and Madeira jus (and that's a starter) and poached chicken breast stuffed with spinach and prosciutto accompanied by a risotto of mushrooms, tomatoes and chives. Seafood is a strength, seeing a starter of bouillabaisse and a main course of vibrantly fresh baked cod served simply with tagliatelle and lemon butter. You could end with passionfruit crème brûlée.