Turners

You certainly won't forget where you are in this classy operation on des-res Harborne's high street, as chef-patron Richard Turner's name is etched all over the striking mirrors lining the walls of the bold, dark and moody charcoal-grey dining room. Equally unforgettable is the refined, confident and creative modern French cooking conjured from top-notch seasonal ingredients; well-judged professional service boosts the quality factor still further. Excellent home-made breads precede salt cod brandade with spiced fish soup and wild garlic leaf, a dish of punchy, clearly defined flavours all working together, while terrine of chicken, ham hock and duck liver is pointed up with beetroot (fresh, pickled, and smooth purée) and wafer-thin translucent discs of crunchy pickled mooli radish. Main course delivers perfectly timed garnet-red medallions of roast loin of hare with a delicate cannelloni of gamey, melt-in-the-mouth braised leg meat, velvety celeriac purée, purple sprouting and pickled prunes. Finally, a textbook blackcurrant soufflé is presented with a great bit of theatrical flourish: the waiter makes a hole in the top and pours in a rich blackcurrant coulis, followed by a quenelle of liquorice ice cream.