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The West House

28 High Street, BIDDENDEN, TN27 8AH

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A generation ago, most of the gastronomic action in the UK took place in the big cities, with grand country-house hotels offering rural retreats when the urge to escape came upon us. These days, country pubs and village restaurants are among the vanguard, being best placed to draw on the local and regional supplies that cutting-edge cookery is all about. Enter the West House, an old beamed edifice in the Kentish wine village of Biddenden, where Flemish weavers' cottages flank the high street, and a sign on the village green commemorates a pair of conjoined twins born in these parts in the twelfth century. If the setting is Old England at its purest, Graham and Jackie Garrett's restaurant-with-rooms is very much a 21st-century operation, for all that the bare floorboards and brick inglenook still speak of centuries gone by. Graham Garrett takes a dynamic interest in contemporary culinary trends, in which ingredients are explored for the potentialities they might yield when subjected to unusual treatments or brought into interesting alignments with cognate flavours in all sorts of new ways. 'Deconstruction' may be a faintly tedious term now, but as a principle, it works: witness Garrett's take on Caesar salad, with its parmesan pannacotta, scorched lettuce, marinated anchovy and garlic sponge. Fish might appear in voguish 'rockpool' presentation, grilled fillets of white fish alongside squid and pickled seaweed in dashi broth, or in robust Spanish guise, as in roast hake with Ibérico ham, puréed beans and razor-clams. Sika venison with its own little cottage pie is deepened with maple-glazed squash and coffee sauce. Desserts apply the barbecue grill to pineapple, make mousses, ice cream, nuggets and crisps out of milk and honey, or gesture back towards childhood confectionery for a 'Crunchie' of white chocolate and honeycomb parfait.

Further information

Tel: 01580 291341
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Mon
Dates closed: 24-26 Dec & 1 Jan
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for lunch: Sat
Days closed for dinner: Sun

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Graham Garrett, Neil McCue
Number of seats: 32
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

3 Course lunch from: £25.00
2 Course dinner from: £35.00
Sunday lunch: £35.00-£40.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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Junct of A262 & A274. 14m S of Maidstone
Nearest station: Headcorn

Local information for TN27 8AH

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