The Merchant Hotel

A megabucks redevelopment of the derelict Victorian HQ of the Ulster Bank in 2010 restored the old Italianate pile to its former glory and added all the accoutrements you would expect of a premier league 21st-century hotel. As far as dining rooms go, nothing less than opulent would cut the mustard here, and the aptly-named Great Room certainly fits the bill: gilt-wreathed cherubs stare down from an impossibly ornate glass-domed ceiling onto a sumptuous scarlet and candy pink arena amid a riot of Corinthian columns and marble statuary. Thankfully, the kitchen feels no need to produce elaborate concoctions to play up to the palatial setting, sticking instead to an intelligent, straightforward take on French-influenced modern cooking, with plenty of Irish character from the local larder. Starting on a luxurious note, seared foie gras might come with maple syrup pancakes, glazed apples and pain d'épice sauce, followed by a chocolate-glazed seared venison loin with onion tarte Tatin and confit vegetables.