The Olive Tree at the Queensberry Hotel

The Queensberry has been carved out of four Georgian townhouses, its restaurant a series of basement rooms with a décor of neutral tones, combined with subdued lighting. Head chef Nicholas Brodie's travels in the East are reflected in some dishes - soy-glazed cod fillet with a salad of beans, sesame and miso, and egg noodles, say - but he tends to work around a modern British menu with some nods towards the Mediterranean, his self-assurance evident in well-balanced and distinctive dishes. A terrine of ham hock, confit chicken and duck foie gras with pear and tamarind chutney makes a good combination of flavours and textures, and may be followed by duck breast with a spring roll of the leg, Alsace cabbage and potato fondant, or steamed fillet of sea bass with tempura cheeks and Bombay potatoes. Ingredients are first-rate and presentation a forte, particularly among puddings of Valrhona chocolate fondant with tonka bean ice cream, or caramel mousse with a matching sauce.