Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond

Scottish culinary superstar Martin Wishart's first venture outside his eponymous Leith restaurant HQ (see entry) has been a key address on the foodie itinerary north of the border since it opened in 2009. The stately castellated mansion of Cameron House is a suitably five-star setting for the expansion of Brand Wishart, and one that must have held an irresistible appeal for him to return as head honcho after having worked there previously. The loch-side restaurant looking over the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond is a sybaritic setting worthy of a glossy interiors magazine: tones of coffee and cream blend with a tartan carpet reminiscent of a heather-filled glen, and a highly-polished front-of-house team makes sure everything happens at the right pace. Leith is still the centre of operations, so don't expect Wishart to be at the stoves: the man charged with interpreting the boss's contemporary take on French classics is head chef Stewart Boyles, who keeps faith with the house style of hyper-precise, refined modern cooking. He likes to paint a pretty picture on the plate, and delivers assured flavours; underpinnning it all are spanking fresh, conscientiously-sourced materials - perhaps Shetland mussels as the foundation of a mouclade and langoustines starter, pointed up with curry and saffron velouté. Next up, roast John Dory and bone marrow might appear in a full-throttle pairing, backed up by wild mushrooms, cocotte potatoes and truffle jus, or roast loin of Borders roe deer could share a plate with goats' cheese gnocchi, braised gem lettuce and sauce grand veneur.