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Michael Wignall at The Latymer

London Road, BAGSHOT, GU19 5EU

5 rosettes

The creeper-covered Victorian manor at the heart of the 123-acre Pennyhill estate was built as a family home for a businessman of some regard, and has grown into a high-powered hotel and spa. The grounds include elegant gardens, wild woodland, a less wild golf course and even a rugby pitch where the England Rugby Union team trains. The spa is so swish it has its own swimming pool (one of eight!) with underwater music and there are pampering treatments on offer such as chocolate and vanilla body therapy (yum). Pennyhill has every base covered, with an impressive brasserie dining option and glorious afternoon teas taken in the Ascot Bar or out on one of the terraces. Everything is set up for pure indulgence and relaxation, and something would be amiss is there wasn't a serious dining option. There is: Michael Wignall at The Latymer is one of the top restaurants in the country. The dining room is split between two elegant spaces with oak panels and stained-glass windows, with a contemporary and smart finish, watched over by an effortlessly dynamic service team. Chef is a bit of an adrenalin junky outside the 'office', and snowboarding, wakeboarding and downhill mountain biking are doubtless welcome distractions from the intensity of the kitchen. Producing food this good takes 100% commitment, focus and perfectionism. The Drawing Room is the best place to start (with something to your taste in your hand), while deciding whether to go for the ten-course tasting menu, seven-course option or three courses off the fixed-price carte (particularly great value at lunchtime). Expect dishes of precision, creativity and verve. The canap?s set the standard from the off: for example Japanese truffle dumpling (wow) or chicken liver parfait with Madeira jelly served on a crab biscuit (double wow). A starter of lightly salted cod shows superb technique, brilliant ingredients, and, most of all, respect for the first-class produce. The cod is poached in single estate olive oil and partnered with a roasted scallop, Ib?rico lardo, textures of cauliflower and charcoal emulsion in a combination that positively inspires. Nothing is out of place in a stunning-looking main course of Lancashire suckling piglet, enriched with honey and mustard and matched with salt-baked swede, Tomme de Savoie, pak choi and golden enoki mushrooms. A dessert called 'yeast' delivers wonderful flavours and textures, not least the soft milk skin that accompanies the parfait and chocolate caramel, or go for a 'rhubarb' option with caramelised white chocolate and burnt butter crumble. The wine list matches the food in ambition and attainment.

Further information

Tel: 01276 471774
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Sun-Mon (open Sun BHs but closed following Tue)
Dates closed: 1-14 Jan
Days closed for lunch: Tue, Sat
Days closed for dinner: Sun-Mon

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Michael Wignall
Number of seats: 50
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 12 yrs.
Parking available.

Michael Wignall at The Latymer, Bagshot


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M3 junct 3, through Bagshot, left onto A30. 0.5m on right
Nearest station: Bagshot

Local information for GU19 5EU

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