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Michael Wignall at The Latymer

Pennyhill Park Hotel & Spa, London Road, BAGSHOT, GU19 5EU

5 rosettes

It sounds lovely, doesn't it, Pennyhill Park? And as you approach the house along the tree-lined driveway, with rabbits dotted about on the grass enjoying their evening meal, you'll already be starting to think the place is living up to expectations. It would be fair to say that this luxurious hotel has it all: a bit of history and character in the main house (built in the 19th century for a high-flying businessman), a range of sumptuous bedrooms (those in the main house boasting period features, while others are more contemporary), 123 acres of lush wooded parkland, a golf course and other sporting facilities (including a rugby pitch which is a favoured training ground of the England squad), a world-class spa and two restaurants, with Michael Wignall at The Latymer the jewel in the crown (see also entry for The Brasserie). Situated in the main house, looking out over the beautiful grounds (an aperitif on the terrace is a must if the weather is kind), The Latymer is an intimate room full of period character with its oak panelling and stained-glass windows, though with an injection of modernity thanks to a burnt orange, rust and pale green colour palette. There's plenty of modernity in Michael Wignall's cooking, which the man himself describes as, 'complex, carefully crafted and very technical but not intimidating' - we couldn't have put it better ourselves. Ingredients are of the highest possible quality and treated with the utmost respect to produce dishes with clearly defined, fresh flavours that look like pieces of art on the plate. Choose from three, seven or, if your budget will stretch to it, ten courses, and sit back and enjoy a culinary journey that might begin (after a tantalisingly good amuse-bouche and some amazing breads fresh from the hotel's own bakery) with cod poached in single estate olive oil, with confit organic hen's yolk, rose harissa and potato, Monmouthshire ham and cabbage glass - a stunning dish demonstrating precision cooking, impressive technique and incredible flavours and textures. Next up, cannon, neck and belly of Cumbrian lamb - superb-quality meat, singing with flavour - comes with crisp tongue, carrot, hen of the wood and buttered kale in a plate of sheer Spring. Standout dishes from the ten-course tasting menu include 'eel and chicken' - smoked eel and feuille de brick cigar, chicken poached in Asian stock, spiced aubergine, yoghurt and coriander - and cassoulet of cockles, razor and palourde clams, cuttlefish gnocchi, soya beans and poached quail's egg. Sticking with the ten-course taster, desserts are also incredibly skilful, colourful, creative affairs, such as gariguette strawberry with peanut butter tuile and powder, warm doughnut, espuma, strawberry jelly and sorbet, or a thoroughly reworked tiramisł consisting of coffee parfait, jelly chocolate caramel, mocha butter, milk ice cream and almond espuma. The service team are a class act too, and if you prefer to get right to the heart of the culinary action, book yourself dinner at the chef's table (a hand-made bubble-glass one with adjustable lighting, no less).

Further information

Tel: 01276 471774
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon (open Sun BHs but closed following Tue)
Dates closed: 1-14 Jan
Days closed for lunch: Tue, Sat

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Michael Wignall
Number of seats: 50
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 12 yrs.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

3 Course lunch from: £38.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
Michael Wignall at The Latymer, Bagshot

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Directions

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M3 junct 3, through Bagshot, left onto A30. 0.5m on right
Nearest station: Bagshot

Local information for GU19 5EU

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