The Cellar

Ducking behind the Scottish Fisheries Museum on the harbour front and wandering through a pretty cobbled courtyard will take you into the safe and welcoming hands of owners Peter and Susan Jukes. The 17th-century house that is home to The Cellar has lots of period charm - low ceilings, original beams, an open fire, bare-stone walls, and some of the unclothed darkwood tables even have cast iron bases made from old sewing machines. Given its proximity to the harbour, and the fact it used to be a cooperage and smokery back in the day, it is fitting that seafood is the star of the show nowadays. Chef-proprietor Peter has been cooking here for nearly 30 years so knows what works best - namely clean and simple flavours from the supremely fresh seafood and fish. The weekly-changing menu might be supplemented with a robustly flavoured amuse-bouche of smoked haddock in a pastry basket topped with bacon and cream sauce, plus excellent freshly baked bread with good quality butter. Start, perhaps, with Cellar's fish soup - a crayfish bisque with a little cream and gruyère, before grilled fillet of prime North Sea halibut - the fish cooked perfectly - or a warm salad of John Dory with scallops and mussels in a herb and garlic butter, plus tomatoes and a subtle kick of chilli. Finish with iced hazelnut praline parfait with fruits and Cassis sauce before settling down to coffee and home-made whisky chocolates.