9 Market Square, Old Amersham, AMERSHAM, HP7 0DF
Proving the saying that it's an ill wind that blows no good, a fire put Laurie and Jacqueline Gear's restaurant out of action back in 2008, with two results. One was that they expanded into the next door building and reworked the whole interior design aesthetic with a decor combining the period charm of original 16th-century features (a huge open fireplace and oak beams) with designer chairs, walnut tables and modern art. The three dining areas now look contemporary and stylish and one is home to the open kitchen, bringing even more life and energy to the space. The blaze also led to Laurie putting in a game-changing stint at Réné Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen. He returned to Amersham's market square fired up with new inspiration, and The Artichoke took off in a new culinary direction turning organic, free-range and foraged ingredients into dynamic, contemporary, full-on and expertly crafted food. There's a tasting menu (with wine flight), a veggie version, plus a carte that might begin with hop-smoked sea trout with malted grains, dill emulsion and beetroot sorbet. There's plenty going on in main courses too: an immaculately poached fillet of wild turbot might come partnered with sea jelly beans and aster, roasted Jerusalem artichoke and orange butter sauce. Desserts are no less creative and appealing-Brillat Savarin cheesecake, perhaps, with Poire Williams eau-de-vie sorbet, pickled pear, sweet cicely and granola, or go for French and English farmhouse cheeses with hand-made crackers. The wine list is a class act, too, with its well-chosen bins covering the globe in style. .
Tel: 01494 726611
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 1 wk Xmas & Apr, 2 wks Aug/Sep
Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Laurie Gear, Ben Jenkins
Number of seats: 48
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Vegetarian meals available.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £22.50
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.