The rather grand old coaching inn in the centre of Abergavenny cuts a contemporary dash these days, making the most of its Georgian proportions and original features while satisfying the expectations of the modern traveller. It's all very classy, but very welcoming and all-embracing, and has connections with The Walnut Tree down the road in Llandewi Skirrid (see entry). The tables in the restaurant are dressed up in their best whites (eating in the bar is a more casual option), while the menu follows a brasserie-style European road. Kick off with game terrine with pear chutney and toasted beer bread, moving on to moules et frites or breast of Llanarth pheasant with a casserole of cannellini beans. Afternoon tea is a bit of a treat, too.