The Cat Inn

The 16th-century Cat Inn commands a prime spot opposite the church in picturesque West Hoathly, a hilltop village on the edge of the Ashdown Forest. Landlord Andrew Russell swapped grand Gravetye Manor for this thriving free house in 2009, then placed local chef Max Leonard in the kitchen and hasn't looked back since. Step inside the characterful old bar to find an enormous fireplace, oak beams, fine wooden panelling and floors, and a buzzy atmosphere. Beyond are the light and airy garden room, and the sun trap terrace for summer alfresco dining at smart teak tables. Max draws on fresh, seasonal produce, including local South Downs lamb, Rye Bay fish and seafood, estate game and locally foraged ingredients. This translates to starters of game terrine with Indian military chutney; crispy cod fishcake with minted pea purée; and soft black pudding and roast pork belly served on crushed celeriac and caramelised apple. For mains, choose sea bass with brown shrimp and caper butter; the traditional Harvey's beer-battered fish and chips; or steak, mushroom and ale pie with mash and vegetables; or go for the steaming bowl of mussels in a pancetta and leek cream, and served with warm dipping bread and chips. Pace yourself as you will need room for Max's Valrhona chocolate salted caramel tart with Chantilly cream, or his quince, apple and raspberry crumble. Wash down with a cracking pint of local Dark Star ale or delve into the excellent list of wines; ten offered by the glass. There are super local walks and make time to visit the fascinating Priests House in the village. Booking for meals may be required.