Evolving over centuries from a toll gate, or 'yat', on the long road from Kendal to Scotland, today's incarnation is a classy mix of traditional pub and fine restaurant; timeless ambience (the pub is around 330 years old) and top notch dishes, where 'free range' and 'organic' are words constantly at the forefront of Matt Edwards' mantra. Lunch and evening menus will vary, and content depends on seasonal or specialist availability, but could encompass starters of spicy Tuscan bean soup, or pigeon and fig terrine with pickled walnut and watercress. For main course, perhaps try confit duck leg with warm potato, chorizo and black pudding salad, the stuffed belly of Lakeland lamb with Crofton cheese mash and Madeira and thyme jus, or the Moroccan vegetable tagine with spicy lemon harrissa dressing and coriander couscous. Leave room for sticky date pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream, or an impressive selection of local cheeses served with home-made chutney. To accompany, there's authentic Trappist beer, an excellent list of wines (12 by the glass), or take a leaf out of locals' and Matt's book and indulge in a beer from one of the reliable craft breweries within a few miles of the inn, perhaps a pint from the range Hesket Newmarket, Tirril and Barnsgate ales. The location is stunning - on one horizon rise the lofty North Pennines; to another the hills and moors bounding nearby Ullswater draw the eye. In between is the Eden Valley, source of much of the food prepared at this well respected dining inn. So, famished M6 travellers should note the location of this fine gastro-pub - it's only two miles from junction 40 at Penrith. Booking for meals may be required.