The Hand & Flowers

Tom and Beth Kerridge bought the lease of this whitewashed 18th-century pub in 2005 and it quickly became a destination for food-lovers as much as locals in search of a pint of Abbot Ale and a pork pie. An unassuming pub on the outskirts of this upmarket town, The Hand & Flowers remains a class act and a gastronomic hotspot. Despite gaining three AA Rosettes in the first year, the pub remains a relaxed and unpretentious place, with flagstone floors, old beams and timbers, roaring winter log fires, walls lined with striking modern art, leather banquettes and cloth-less, smartly-set tables. A small bar area serves decent real ale, and a cracking set lunch that features dishes like tomato soup with basil pesto; crispy lamb breast with pomme boulangère; profiteroles with dark chocolate sauce. The friendly, knowledgeable service also helps to set the tone of the place. Tom's cooking is intelligently straightforward and elegant, with simplicity, flavour and skill top of his agenda. The style is broadly modern British, underpinned by classical French techniques, and the seasonally-changing menu is built around top-notch produce. Considerable skill and confidence can be seen in dishes such as starters of salt cod Scotch egg with chorizo and red pepper sauce; parsley soup with smoked eel, bacon and parmesan tortellini, and main dishes of line-caught cod with pastrami, herb crust and etuvé of leek; loin of Cotswold venison with ox tongue, Bérigoule mushroom, English lettuce and prickly ash; and Essex lamb 'bun' with sweetbreads and salsa verde. Be wowed by desserts such as tonka bean pannacotta with poached rhubarb, or passionfruit soufflé with kaffir lime ice cream and warm toffee. The Thames is close for revitalising river walks. Booking for meals may be required.