The Royal Oak

Just up the hill from town on the edge of Marlow Common, this little old whitewashed pub stands in sprawling, flower-filled gardens. It's one of five in the well-regarded Salisbury Pubs mini-empire in and around the Chilterns, all of which have entries in this guide.* Inside, it's spacious yet cosy, with dark floorboards, rich fabrics, a rosy red dining room and a wood-burning stove. All this sets the tone for early evening regulars gathered round a challenging crossword with a pint of Rebellion from Marlow, or Tutts Clump draught cider from West Berkshire. The imaginative modern British menu, put together with good food ethics in mind, is designed to appeal to all, beginning with 'small plates', or starters such as Dorset crab with cucumber, apple and Bloody Mary dressing, and crispy shredded five-spice duck leg, sesame beansprouts, tamarind and hoi sin dressing. Main courses cover ground from pan-fried lamb cutlet, seared kidney and liver, fondant potato, crushed peas and mint oil; and root vegetable with coconut and coriander curry with lime raita and cardamom pilaff rice; to British coastal shellfish linguine with tomato marinara and lemon brioche crumbs. Perhaps to follow, Black Forest marshmallow arctic roll with hot chocolate shot, or warm pecan pie with Chantilly cream. An exclusively European wine list includes 22 by the glass and a wide choice of pudding wines, including one from Worcestershire. Free Wi-fi is available if you're planning a working lunch or dinner. Outside are a sunny summer terrace, pétanque piste and, if you're lucky, red kites wheeling around in the sky. Booking for meals may be required. *Alford Arms, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire; and in Buckinghamshire, The Swan Inn, Denham; The Old Queens Head, Penn; and The Black Horse, Fulmer.