Hidden Cornwall at Nare Head

There are parts of the Cornish coast that seem especially remote, where main roads have been kept at arms' length and where human development has not gone beyond farming and small scale sea-going. The lonely stretch of South Cornish coast between Gerrans Bay and Veryan Bay, with Nare Head at its centre, is one such place, a landscape where people seem to have lived always at a healthy distance from too much intrusion.

The walk begins at the seasonally popular Carne Beach. A steady hike along the coast path from here soon brings you to a steep descent into the narrow Paradoe, pronounced 'Perada', Cove. On a spur of land above the sea is the ruin of a small cottage. This was the home of a 19th-century fisherman called Mallet , who lived during the week in this lonely spot, fishing from 'Mallet's Cove' below, then returning at weekends to his wife at the village of Veryan, a few miles (kilometres) inland. Eventually Mallet emigrated to Australia - without his wife. Weekends had become non-negotiable, perhaps. The little ruined cottage above the restless sea still speaks of a life of extraordinary detachment.

From Paradoe it is a long, punishing climb to the flat top of Nare Head. Beyond the Head a pleasant ramble takes you along the coast past the steep Rosen Cliff and by lonely coves. Offshore lies the formidable Gull Rock The route leads to Portloe, a fishing village that seems to have survived without imposed 'quaintness' and without too much intrusion. Here, a steep-sided valley has left only enough room at its seaward end for fishing boats and a pleasant veneer of houses and cottages to either side. You head inland from this reassuring place into a lost world of little fields and meadows that straggle across country to Veryan.

From Veryan the route wanders back towards the sea, past the ancient landmark of Carne Beacon, a Bronze Age burial site that saw later service as a signal station, a triangulation point and as a Second World War observation post. Before these latter uses the bones beneath had been disturbed by curious Victorians. A few fields away lies 'Veryan Castle', known also as 'The Ringarounds', the site of a Late Iron Age farming settlement. These ancient sites prove that this absorbing landscape has given refuge to people for thousands of years. From the high ground the route leads down to the coast once more.

While you're there

Divert from the main route to visit Veryan, one of South Cornwall's most fascinating villages. It is famous for its five whitewashed round houses with thatched conical roofs, They date from the early 19th century and were the inspiration of the Revd Jeremiah Trist, a local landowner. Various fanciful myths attach to these houses but they seem to have simply reflected a contemporary fashion for ornamental architecture. Visit Veryan's Church of St Symphorian, essentially a Victorian restoration of a previous church.

Where to eat and drink

An ice cream and soft drinks van operates at Carne Beach during the summer. The Tregain Tea Room and licensed restaurant, just up from the harbour at Portloe is a delight. It offers morning coffee, lunches and special dishes on Sundays. Portloe's Ship Inn is a pleasant pub with a large beer garden and a good selection of pub food. At Veryan, the New Inn has a good selection of spicy and traditional food. Opposite is the friendly Tregarthen Coffee Shop, part of Elerkey Guest House, offering morning coffees, afternoon teas and delicious Cornish cream teas.